Witnessing the Death of a Secular Turkish State, Part 2

Military vehicles enter Istanbul Ataturk Airport following an attempted coup
After my wife had returned home we expected a police raid or something, but nothing happened. Immediately, my wife was on the phone, trying to connect with her new employer, which she so prudently had found well beforehand, and now she was imploring them to help us. We did not have enough cash for even one plane ticket, and we needed two. Fortunately, the employer already knew what was happening in Turkey and agreed to advance us the money. Thus our plane tickets were purchased for us immediately.
We fled the country the very next evening. The day was spent in crazy packing and preparation. We were leaving nearly everything we had bought in Turkey. Around midnight we stepped out of our apartment for the last time, carrying two suitcases and a couple of bags. I looked back at our temporary home and only shook my head in sad disbelief. It had served us well while it lasted. It was a typical furnished modern apartment in a typical Turkish apartment house, completed with a customary sofa and plump armchairs, a Turkish rug, a dishwasher, a huge bed, and various trinkets. We did not manage to add to its furnishing much — just a few lamps, cookery, and other small things. Still, it used to be our home. The only thing that we carried from the apartment, except for our luggage, was our live Christmas tree that we bought the last Christmas. (I was somewhat surprised that Turkish supermarkets sold Christmas decorations and tiny live Christmas trees planted in soil-filled baskets.). I hated the thought of throwing it away. Therefore, we took it to the lobby and implored a security guard to give it to a maintenance guy in the morning so he would plant it somewhere on the building grounds.
After that, we asked the security guard to call us a taxi. It arrived promptly within ten minutes. But when we told the driver we were going to the airport, he broke into a long angry tirade in Turkish. The security guard, who was standing nearby, tried to translate what the guy had said. It went this: “You need special permits to go to the airport! Do you have special permits? No?”
The taxi turned around and left without us. We were stunned. What special permit? What was he talking about? My wife was frantic while she continued to ask the security guard the same question again, again and again. He called us another taxi, but this time my wife showed the driver our boarding passes, which she smartly printed a while ago. The driver seemed satisfied this time, and so we got into the taxi and drove off. Read more








